I did not want a wire from my radio to my sim usb. There were a few solutions for this but most were bulky and clumsy to use. I got a few parts and put one together myself. Saw the idea a few places, but wanted to write up how I did it.
We need to prep the receiver for use with the USB dongle. We need to activate the PPM on the receiver by jumping the the PPM pads on the receiver, with a wire or a solder jump. (may be a little different depending on the mini receiver)
Next prep the USB board either take off the wire plug or leave it on and use the connections points. It is easier to remove the connector and it give you more room. Connect the pins as shown. (may be a little different depending on the mini receiver)
Once the connections are made tuck everything in nicely. Before putting the case back on I would bind it to a model and test operation.
It is so much easier to tune a Flybarless unit without having to drag a laptop around. Much easier to tune with cell phone or a tablet over bluetooth. Luckily 3Digi made it easy. Here is how I did it.
First get your self a cheap bluetooth module. I got mine from GearBest.com. It is the HC-06 module 3Digi recommends. From Gearbest to the USA it is under 9$ with free shipping.
The wiring is pretty easy. Below are all the directions you will need.
JST ZH on the 3Digi and any Servo connector or 4 wire connector on the HC-06. Here is the wiring.
After getting it wired up make sure you set up the cell phone or tablet 3Digi Terminal app you can download it at the playstore for Android here.
Link your Bluetooth and the password for the module should be 1234.
You then have to set up the 3Digi to use bluetooth this is covered in the manual on page 50. You will have to do the initial setup with a USB cable. You can find the setup up under the Extras > Special menu. After you have the 3Digi set up you should be ready to connect to you 3Digi via bluetooth.
Love my Taranis, but found that the speaker was tinny and not very loud. Also I had no bass at all out of the speaker. I found many upgrades for the speaker online. I ordered the speaker and made an adapter. It was an easy install, only took about 20 minutes. The kit is available at our store.
Take out the 6 screws holding the two halves together and split the case. Disconnect the wiring to the old speaker and remove the old speaker.
Then use hot glue to install the adapter.
Then solder in the speaker connector then glue in the speaker.
I recently got a Taranis Transmitter and I love it. I started going through my models binding them with my radio. I got stuck on my 250 Quad running a cheap Thunder KK Pro. It took me a while to confugre my radio to work with this and the Spectrum satellite I am running on it. First I had to confirm that the Channels were set up correctly then I had to set the throttle to 125% so it would arm. I noticed that the rudder was backwards so I had to change that up. I didn’t find much info on the internet for this set up, so I figured I would write it up for you.
Here is my set up that is working great for me.
The main screen just basic stuff.
Here are the two flight modes I added.
Here are the basic inputs.
Here is the mixer setup.Servo setup. This is the one curve I used. The special Functions screen.That is how i set up my Thunder KK Pro Flight controller for my little Quadcopter. If you need any more info or a shortcut. I included my eepe file 250Quad.eepe.
After a few crashes on any foam board plane some parts start to weaken. One of the spots the starts to break or weaken is the power pod. I made a few parts to reinforce the front power pod. They are light and easy to install. They make the whole front of the plane a little more solid. Cut from lightweight birch plywood they work perfect on any Flitetest power pod.
The Kit has 3 peices.
When assembled they form a strong motor mount. The assembly slides easily in the flitetest power pod. Making a stronger power pod.
Here is a quick how to video for the whole process.