I did not want a wire from my radio to my sim usb. There were a few solutions for this but most were bulky and clumsy to use. I got a few parts and put one together myself. Saw the idea a few places, but wanted to write up how I did it.
We need to prep the receiver for use with the USB dongle. We need to activate the PPM on the receiver by jumping the the PPM pads on the receiver, with a wire or a solder jump. (may be a little different depending on the mini receiver)
Next prep the USB board either take off the wire plug or leave it on and use the connections points. It is easier to remove the connector and it give you more room. Connect the pins as shown. (may be a little different depending on the mini receiver)
Once the connections are made tuck everything in nicely. Before putting the case back on I would bind it to a model and test operation.
There is a noticeable size differnce between these new Batteries and the old one.
I had to slide the battery back a bit to maintain balance on the heli, but the extra power should have no issue making up for the weight difference.
There is a about a 2 gram weight difference between the 2 batteries.
Got out to fly these new batteries today and they performed perfectly. They had power and there was less bogging on the motor. The punch outs were fast and had enough power to blow out the tail. Now I have to deal with that issue. Great batteries with plenty of punch.
As a lower end battery this one really packs a punch and for 16.99 for 5 of them you cannot beat the price. Flight times went from 2 minutes for over 5. That is a massive improvement.
Love my Taranis, but found that the speaker was tinny and not very loud. Also I had no bass at all out of the speaker. I found many upgrades for the speaker online. I ordered the speaker and made an adapter. It was an easy install, only took about 20 minutes. The kit is available at our store.
Take out the 6 screws holding the two halves together and split the case. Disconnect the wiring to the old speaker and remove the old speaker.
Then use hot glue to install the adapter.
Then solder in the speaker connector then glue in the speaker.
After a few crashes on any foam board plane some parts start to weaken. One of the spots the starts to break or weaken is the power pod. I made a few parts to reinforce the front power pod. They are light and easy to install. They make the whole front of the plane a little more solid. Cut from lightweight birch plywood they work perfect on any Flitetest power pod.
The Kit has 3 peices.
When assembled they form a strong motor mount. The assembly slides easily in the flitetest power pod. Making a stronger power pod.
Here is a quick how to video for the whole process.
I designed a reinforced wingbox that easily mounts in place of the base foam wing supports. Built out of 1/8in birch plywood it is strong without adding to much weight. This mod can be installed during initial build of the FT Spitfire.The kit is also available for the BF-109 variant of the design. It works great and you can still access the power pod. Here is a how to video.
I love the FT Spitfire but found I wanted more scale take off and landing. I thought landing gear would be a nice add. I used the front wheels from a T-28 and built the steerable tail wheel on my own. All the wood parts are made from 1/8″ birch ply. I will include the wood plans for the parts I made. The included build video walks you through how to build and install the landing gear. As seen on Flitetest.com