Love my Taranis, but found that the speaker was tinny and not very loud. Also I had no bass at all out of the speaker. I found many upgrades for the speaker online. I ordered the speaker and made an adapter. It was an easy install, only took about 20 minutes. The kit is available at our store.
Take out the 6 screws holding the two halves together and split the case. Disconnect the wiring to the old speaker and remove the old speaker.
Then use hot glue to install the adapter.
Then solder in the speaker connector then glue in the speaker.
Put everything back together and you are set.
Kit is $12 at our store.
I recently got a Taranis Transmitter and I love it. I started going through my models binding them with my radio. I got stuck on my 250 Quad running a cheap Thunder KK Pro. It took me a while to confugre my radio to work with this and the Spectrum satellite I am running on it. First I had to confirm that the Channels were set up correctly then I had to set the throttle to 125% so it would arm. I noticed that the rudder was backwards so I had to change that up. I didn’t find much info on the internet for this set up, so I figured I would write it up for you.
Here is my set up that is working great for me.
The main screen just basic stuff.
Here are the two flight modes I added.
Here are the basic inputs.
Here is the mixer setup.Servo setup.
This is the one curve I used.
The special Functions screen.That is how i set up my Thunder KK Pro Flight controller for my little Quadcopter. If you need any more info or a shortcut. I included my eepe file 250Quad.eepe.
I recently got a JR10SX Heli as part of a trade. It was a great radio in it’s day. I pulled out the 72 mhz module that was in it and replaced it with the Frsky 2.4 ghz with Telemetry. You have to change the module output to PPM. It seems to work great with good range. There were a few issues with the JR10SX Helicopter edition.
I wanted to use the JR10sx for a quad I was building. The JR 10sx Heli is has channel 6 set up for pitch. I have found no way to change the use of the channel. I have found a work around for this issues. Here is what I did.
I used the 3 position flight mode switch to control channel 6. First you have to make sure you have a straight throttle curve in all 3 flight modes. ( sorry the pictures are not better)
Start at the main page, I have the name already set for the new quad.
Hit enter and select 18 for throttle curve.
Now check your throttle curves and make sure they are all straight for positions N,1 and 2.
Next select 68 for Pitch curve, here is where the magic happens.
Now set the Fight Mode switch to N set the pitch curve to 0 for all points in the curve.
Change the Flight Mode Switch to position 1 and set the pitch to 50 points in the curve.
Last change the Flight Mode Switch to position 3 and set the pitch to 100 points in the curve.
Now your Flight Mode switch will act as a 3 position switch that is not controlled by the throttle at all. I use N for stable flight, 1 is GPS hold, and 2 is return to home.
Don’t get rid of those old controllers.
After a few crashes on any foam board plane some parts start to weaken. One of the spots the starts to break or weaken is the power pod. I made a few parts to reinforce the front power pod. They are light and easy to install. They make the whole front of the plane a little more solid. Cut from lightweight birch plywood they work perfect on any Flitetest power pod.
The Kit has 3 peices.
When assembled they form a strong motor mount.
The assembly slides easily in the flitetest power pod.
Making a stronger power pod.
Here is a quick how to video for the whole process.
As always you can get your kit at the store.
I designed a reinforced wingbox that easily mounts in place of the base foam wing supports. Built out of 1/8in birch plywood it is strong without adding to much weight. This mod can be installed during initial build of the FT Spitfire.The kit is also available for the BF-109 variant of the design. It works great and you can still access the power pod. Here is a how to video.
After flying my Flitetest spitfire and my BF-109 (basically the same fuselage), I found my front wingbox getting really weak and started tearing out. So I repaired it multiple times with hot glue but it kept getting weak.
So I designed a reinforced wingbox that easily mounts in place of the foam wing supports. Built out of 1/8in birch plywood it should be strong without adding to much weight.
It works great and you can still access the power pod. Now there is no reason to cut a whole new fuselage when your wingbox weakens. I have created an easy to follow how to video and the parts are available in the Attitude RC store Now!
I love the FT Spitfire but found I wanted more scale take off and landing. I thought landing gear would be a nice add. I used the front wheels from a T-28 and built the steerable tail wheel on my own. All the wood parts are made from 1/8″ birch ply. I will include the wood plans for the parts I made. The included build video walks you through how to build and install the landing gear. As seen on Flitetest.com